Omega Seamaster Polaris. Vintage watches

In the period around 1982-1991 Omega had a series of watches of which I find one especially attractive, the late generation Titanium multifunction variant

I like the ‘smart‘ functionality of the time where the dial can also go black hiding the golden characters completely, leaving an elegant 7mm thin classic watch.

Holes in LCD

In the 1987 catalogue p9 it can be seen that the early multifunction variants had an inner circle, even the black one, making it less attractive than the later one(s) with a full dial LCD with a hole for the hands. Here in 1991. This one with a broken display gives us a view into how it is made, holes in displays are not new:

 

The Polaris exists with different sizes, calibers and dials, and in different case materials.

I know of the three sizes: “Ladies”, “Men” and “XL”

And have seen (pictures of) these case combinations

  • Titanium with gold inlay
  • Gold with titanium inlays
  • Gold with titanium and diamonds inlays
  • Titanium with palladium inlays
  • Stainless steel with Gold inlays

The backs also vary over time. The early ones with a flat back and the later having a relief Semaster logo, and some of these with gold.

The steel/titanium was brushed up, to give it a mate finish, so it can be difficult to distinguish the two on photos. In the hand the titanium is substantially lighter of course.

The bracelet exists in various matching combinations, I know of

  • Titanium
  • Titanium with gold centre-links
  • Gold with titanium centre links
  • Stainless steel
  • Stainless steel with gold plate/inlay(?) centre links

(With the width matching the case size of course)

I’m not sure if the stainless steel+gold is actually gold plated OR it has thin gold plates similar to the inlay in the case. I have not tried to test it on the specimen I have had in my hands… but in the 1987 German price catalogue there is a substantial price difference (1250 vs 2300 DM) and it is (translated) called “…with gold inlays in case and in band” in German “… mit goldintarsien im Gehaüsa und im Band, so seems unlikely that it is merely gold plated.

The early titanium bands came with the buckle of the Stainless-steel one (note the colour difference of the double link of the clasp), only being given a special buckle in a later generation. Also note the plain back with text on the early one, and the relief on the later.

  vs

 

The calibers exist in a variety where at least the ‘Olympic’ 1988 Calgary/Seoul one is in the XL edition only, and the lady-size is with plain time and time&date only

  • Cal. 1665, Multifunction, LCD-display, Early version both grey and black exist.
  • Cal. 1460 Plain time
  • Cal. 1380&1109 Plain time with date at 3-o’clock
  • Cal. 1449 GMT variant with extra 24h hand, and date at 3-o’clock
  • Cal. 1444 Chrono with two small dials for weekday and day
  • Cal. 1675&1154, Chrono with seven hands and two buttons and date at 3-o’clock
  • Cal. 1670 Olympic with seven hands, two LCD-windows and four buttons

Some got the hour dots as florescent, and some got diamonds.

And apart from that the models have been varied from the early to the late, e.g. look closely at these three

The first got a slighter smaller dial (larger gold bezel), and the next two got different date-wheel colour, I do not know the chronology.

 

The ids used for Omage watches are a bit odd. They got a ref number that describes the total combination of case and bracelet, but they ALSO got a numbering system for the case and caliber. The first two characters describe the case material, I know of these
TB=Titanium with yellow gold
TR=Titanium with red gold
DB=Steel with yellow gold

and this is followed by a two part number, e.g. “DB 386.0822” for the case and caliber type, here a few as I understand them:
386.0820 Men, multifunction caliber 1665, from 1986
386.0822 Men, multifunction caliber 1665, from 1988
386.0823 Men, multifunction caliber 1665, from 1990-1991?
386.0885 XL, multifunction caliber 1665, from 1993

The bracelets also got a numbering system…. see e.g. this

The total combination got a Ref number, that could be e.g. “25405000” (that I think was called “2540.50” in the US to increase the confusion) and this is a “DB 386.822” (or 823? not sure) with a “DB 1455/448” steel bracelet with gold on centre links. (see this)

 

These are representative for the different cases, calibers and dials I know of:

 

These are representative for the different bands I know of.